Natural UV Lacquer Chevron Oak Flooring Fishbone Hardwood Timber Plank Floor Indoor Residential Wooden Parquet Shunyang 20496

Floating Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Install the first row using wood glue on all plank ends, arranged with the tongue facing the center of the room.

Step 2:

When installing additional rows, work from left to right. Apply wood glue to the tongue and groove seams, then connect the pieces, carefully folding and tapping the new piece to rest on the subfloor. Immediately wipe up any glue that squeezes through the boards. 

Step 3:

Measure from board (not tongue) to wall and subtract the expansion gap to know the correct cut for the last row of boards. Then, insert the last row of flooring, taking care to leave the proper extension gap between the last piece and the wall.

Step 4:

Remove the painter's tape after 8-10 hours, but avoid heavy foot traffic and furniture placement for 24 hours. 

Step 5:

Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers. Then nail the baseboards and shoe mouldings to the wall, not the floor. 

Good to Know:

Use small pieces of painter's tape randomly over each new seam to secure your work as you move. This provides additional stability to the floor as the glue dries.

Glue-down Installation over a Concrete Subfloor

Lay spacers along the walls to create the expansion gap specified in the manufacturer's instructions.

Step 2:

Pour a small amount of glue on the concrete – about the width of two or three boards – and use the trowel to scrape the glue and drips clean away from the bucket. 

Step 3:

Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and spread the glue – make sure the teeth of the trowel touch the concrete. Continue to spread glue in small sections; you only want to work on two or three rows at a time.

Step 4:

Using the straightest boards, lay the first row along the guideline you created when prepping the subfloor with the tongue side of the board facing toward the room.

Step 5:

Fit the second row's groove on the first row's tongue and tap the board into place using a rubber mallet and block.

Step 6:

Stagger the boards at least 6 inches from each end to add strength to the floor. You may have to cut the first board using a circular or miter saw with a blade designed for engineered wood flooring.
When you run into columns or doorways, cut the planks to fit on both sides, taking care to maintain the expansion gap. 

Step 7:

When you reach the end of the floor, stop and leave enough space to comfortably exit the room without stepping on the new floor. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. If you need to finish installing the flooring, follow the same process until you reach the last row.

Step 8:

Measure the distance between the wall and the board – not the tongue – and subtract the expansion gap. Cut (or rip) the last row. If the boards are less than one inch wide, apply glue to the tongue of the installed boards and slide the last row into place using a pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to protect your wall.
Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers. Then nail the baseboards and shoe mouldings to the wall.

Staple-Down Installation over a Plywood Subfloor

Step 1:

For the first row, pre-drill and nail with finishing nails about 1 inch from the wall at 3- to 4-inch intervals. Use a nail punch and fill the holes with wood filler. 

Step 2:

For the second and third rows, drive staples every 3 to 4 inches at a 45-degree angle, just above the tongue using a pneumatic staple gun. Staples must not interfere with the tongue-and-groove fit of additional boards. 

Step 3:

Your last one or two rows will be face-nailed, as your pneumatic stapler will be difficult to operate in a small space. Pre-drill the holes and use a nail punch to countersink the nails. Fill the holes with matching wood filler to camouflage the marks. 

Step 4:

Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers. Then nail the baseboards and shoe mouldings to the wa